Saturday
I awaken cocooned in my hammock, snuggled in a sheet against
the morning chill. I spread open the sheet and the mosquito
net and open my eyes. There it is, Angel Falls looming directly
ahead, playing peekaboo under the clouds. Everyone is moving
at a slow pace, taking pictures, and enjoying the peacefulness
of the morning. For some reason, the camp guides haven't started
the generator yet. This means no water pressure to flush the
toilets. Need I say more?
After a breakfast of scrambled eggs, a slice of ham and of
cheese, arepas, and coffee, we load up in the canoe for a
quick trip across the river. Then it's an hour's hike up a
muddy and slippery path through the jungle. We carefully pick
our way over roots, mud puddles, and logs. Carlos leads the
way looking for snakes. The last part of the hike is steep
and challenging as we scramble up slippery rocks.
We ultimately reach Mirador Salto Angel, which provides a
view of Angel Falls near the bottom where it joins the river.
There's no viewing platform here, nor are there any guard
rails. About 30-40 tourists compete for space on a rocky precipice
over a sheer dropoff. Wet spray and wind from the falls make
the area quite treacherous, an OSHA inspector's nightmare.
The view is spectacular though. Since it's wet season, a roaring
river of water cascades over the top of the tepui. As the
water free falls it explodes into a swirling mist before reaching
the river below. After a brief time, we head back down the
path to our canoe.
Back at camp, we're served a spaghetti lunch. The first bite
is quite a surprise: fish spaghetti sauce. I scrape it to
the side; Nick eats all of his.
We're back in the canoe by 2:00 P.M. for the faster downstream
trip to the Canaima camp. We're expecting a drier trip, but
quickly reach for our jackets as waves board the boat. The
gringos are wet again.
We arrive back at river's edge just above Canaima Falls,
but this time there's no truck to haul us and our stuff to
the posada. We walk about a mile down a muddy road to the
posada, where Carlos tells us (again) that there's no room
for us here. Instead, we'll be sent to a nearby posada. We're
feeling pretty special by now. A truck is requisitioned to
haul us and our gear to Posada Kaikuse.
Upon arrival, the innkeepers inform us that there aren't
enough rooms for all us, so two couples will have to share
a room with four single beds. Yes indeed, we're feeling special
now! Nick and I get a room with three beds next to the innkeeper's
quarters. Next door, a child is screaming when we enter our
room and is still screaming when we leave for dinner. We do
get much-needed showers, although there isn't any hot water.
We're past being picky at this point. The truck returns around
7:30 and takes us to dinner at the main posada. Our meal is
an eggplant and vegetable saute, rice, and bread.
When we return to our room, we're relieved that the child
next door is silent. However, about the time we crawl into
our separate beds, the howling starts again. I guess we eventually
tune it out and fall asleep. Our rest is short-lived though.
We're awakened in the wee hours by a rooster just outside
our door who doesn't seem to get the sunrise thing. Barking
dogs join the crowing. Why didn't we think to pack ear plugs?
For the Day 3 log, scroll down and click the link at the
bottom of this page.
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Early morning view of Angel Falls from our
camp.
Nick's view from his hammock, pretty except
for the toes.
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