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August 10-12, 2007

Angel Falls: Day 3

Sunday

The truck arrives at 8:00 A.M. to take our group to breakfast at the main posada. We're served a fried egg, pancake with jelly, and the usual slices of ham and cheese.

After breakfast, eight of us join Carlos for the Sapo Falls tour. We climb aboard the canoe and motor across the lagoon below the Canaima Falls. Since it is now wet season, the water is flowing at full power. A layer of foam covers the lagoon. It's like riding through a layer of steamed milk in a cup of cappuccino. We have an easy 30-minute hike to the Sapo Falls. Here we will walk behind the falls to the other side.

Although we're wearing swimsuits, none of us are prepared for what we experience. We gingerly pick our way down a narrow path between the rock wall and the torrential cascade of water coming over the falls. There's a single rope guard rail between us and the edge. A misstep could mean disaster. The waterfall is so powerful it would easily crush anyone who fell onto the rocks below. In some places, the water curves backwards across our path making it nearly impossible to see. If you can imagine standing in front of a fire hose, you'll have the general idea.

On the other side of the falls, we stop briefly. Nick has carried the camera in a plastic bag, but even here it is too wet to bring it out. The only pictures from this part of the tour are taken by another cruiser who brought her camera in a clear dry bag. During the drier months, it's possible to swim in the pool beneath the falls. Today that would be suicide. After a brief viewing time, we retrace our path under the blinding cascade of water.

When we arrive back at the posada, we learn that planes are ready to take us back to Cuidad Bolivar. Rather than wait on the big plane that brought us here, our group will be divided among three planes. Nick and I end up on two different single-engine, five-passenger planes. The sun is shining and the trip is pleasant.

Back at the airport, Natasha greets us and apologizes for our problems. Our ride to Puerto La Cruz has not arrived yet, so she arranges for several taxis to take us to a market area on the Orinoco River. We have a delicious lunch with a fabulous view, followed by a quick stop at the shoreside festivities of the Malicon. Then it's back in the van for the bone-jarring ride home.

The waterfalls were spectacular and we're glad to have made the trip. Some of the logistics were botched, but we learned to be flexible and go with the flow when traveling in remote areas. Venezuela is a country of unsurpassed natural beauty. It offers islands with powdery white beaches and pristine water, lush jungles, majestic mountains, and fertile plains. We hope to see more of this incredible country before we leave.

A parrot outside the restaurant.

View of the lagoon below Canaima Falls.

Canoes beached at the lagoon.

Foam from the falls, like steamed milk on a cup of coffee.

This picture is not upside down. This is the start of the path that
goes under the Sapo Falls. Note the rope guard rail on the left.

A narrow path goes under a rocky outcrop.

Walking under Sapo Falls, we can barely see the trail.

On the other side, Deanna looking back at Sapo Falls. "I can't believe
I just walked under that thing!"

Nick: "Hooray, I made it to the other side!"

A raindrop on a tropical flower.

For the return trip, we fly in single-engine planes.

This pilot is reading the newspaper. At least he didn't take a nap.

We fly over the Embalse de Guri.

Fresh fish for sale at the market in Cuidad Bolivar.

The longest suspension bridge in South America spans the Orinoco
at Cuidad Bolivar.

Pier and fish market on the Orinoco River.

Isn't he cute?

Musicians enjoying Sunday afternoon on the Malicon.

 

Our Traveling Companions:

Jeff and Una, S/V Dragonfly

Vickie and Steve, S/V True Companions

Ken and Cathy, S/V Chill

Joe and Diana, S/V Moon Goddess

Karin and Paul, M/V Dreamweaver

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